Victor Valley Expedition to Timor-Leste a Success
TIMOR-LESTE TRAVELOGUE By Barbara Lester
(Photo above: Team banquet in Dili)
Traveling throughout Timor-Leste for three weeks on a scientific expedition was a unique way to experience this emerging nation for the first time. Nine biology students, (5 from the U.S. and 4 from Timor-Leste), a professor of biology and two professional herpetologists (one was my husband) were my traveling companions. The trip was the brainchild of biology professor Dr. Hinrich Kaiser of Victor Valley College in California. His goal was to begin a five year study of the herpetofauna (reptiles and amphibians) of Timor Leste in the hopes of producing a field guide to these animals and add to the general body of scientific knowledge about reptiles and amphibians of the world.
(Photo above: Dr Kaiser teaching a Timorese University student)
Dr. Kaiser, the trip leader, has been leading students in the field for years. His ability to connect with the students and make each lesson attractive to the mind was impressive and reflected his enthusiasm for his research. My husband, Paul Freed, is a herpetologist and I am a primatologist: he studies amphibians and reptiles whereas I study primates. We both recently retired from 25 year careers at the Houston Zoo, in Houston, Texas. This venture was the perfect place to engage Paul’s expertise and since this was not my field of study it was a great time to position myself where I could focus on more cultural than scientific elements of the trip. The other professional herpetologist, Mark O’Shea, is from the U.K. and has, on his resume, the extra feature of having hosted an Animal Planet TV series. On the trip he was recognized in airports and on various stops along the way which lent a certain panache to the whole experience. The students were varied in their scholastic levels: the five U.S. students were from California colleges and the four Timor Leste students were currently living in Dili and attending the National University of Timor-Leste. So with this multinational, multigenerational group coming together as a team we started our journey in the capital, Dili. In the end, these 13 people with age gaps of up to 36 years, language glitches, living and working in close quarters together for 3 weeks, 24/7, as they say, and ending the trip as friends and colleagues… is quite an accomplishment indeed.
(Photo above:Skink Lizard from Lore, Timor-Leste)
First, and foremost, the trip was heralded as a success by the team of biologists who recorded approximately 30 reptile and 7 amphibian species found on the 3 week expedition. This is in comparison to the low number of species of these animals documented in Timor-Leste in recent years. Some of the species they found may be new to science, which, in the world of a biologist on a quest, is a huge deal.
(Photo above:Lore Village home where author was guest)
Second and relevant only to me, traveling with college students many years my junior brought high energy and a sense of innocence and excitement not always felt in the company of seasoned travelers. It was as refreshing as it was challenging. The hills, rivers and forests of Timor-Leste are lovely and they called to us to climb and conquer them and the students were usually first to answer this call and fastest on the treks. The professor tried to rein in the team long enough to discuss the natural history of each area we were in and watching both the U.S. and the Timor-Leste students take these lessons in at their own levels and from their own frames of reference held a great deal of interest to me. But the greatest reward was past the science lessons and came when they melded to form that irrefutable, universally accepted group known to the world as the typical college students. No longer bound by the barriers of language, culture or protocol the banter became young and chatty, they shared music and much laughter and in the end they “culturally mentored” one another in the ways of each of their lives. That, for me, was worth the trip.
(Photo above: Common Toad)
There are several things that stand out as I reflect on the trip. The first is how hospitable the Timor-Leste folks were to us as we traveled through the country. They were generous even when we unknowingly asked for more than our share of resources. The people in the markets were kind, albeit a bit shy.
(Photo above: Market in Maubisse)
People in small villages were helpful with things such as lodging and directions and appropriately curious about our somewhat extraordinary endeavors and queries: “Where is a local hotel and have you seen any snakes in your village?” That is a strange request in any language, in any country. But the people were nice about all of our inquiries and quite helpful if they had information on frogs and lizards and the like. They watched us as we searched for creatures in ditches, rivers and fields and that is where I got some great opportunities to meet candidly with local people. Here, the Timor-Leste contingency of our team, i.e., the Timor-Leste students, were so extremely helpful with introductions and general translations. While we relied on their help in the majority of circumstances I found that, universally, a smile and a hand outstretched in friendship usually got the job done as far a basic “Hello” and “How are you?” goes. On more than one occasion it even prompted invitations into peoples’ homes and I found that to be amazing and kind.
(Photo above:Collared kingfisher in Tutuala)
Another one of the ‘stand-out’ features were the roads. They varied from terrific to terrible. It was noteworthy to me because whether we smoothly sped along the northern coastal highway or barely moved around cavernous potholes on the roads in the central hills, there were always people walking those same roads. I am assuming this facet of the countries’ infrastructure that is being attended, such as road repairs throughout, probably slows commerce down but it is blatantly evident that it does not slow the population of Timor-Leste down.
(Photo above: Tutuala Beach with Jaco Island view)
From some of the remarkable stories I heard during my time in Timor-Leste I realized that resilience is a notable characteristic of the citizens of this country. So, while traffic was stopped for road repairs, I watched from our truck as people skirted around barrels full of hot tar and went on their daily tasks undaunted by the inconvenience as we sat motionless in the middle of the road. I indulged myself in this metaphor about the fortitude of the Timor-Leste people in this ‘road repair’ story because of its relevance to my three-week stay. We traveled many roads and along the way learned a lot about the people and events in their not-so-distant past that led to the need for road repairs and fortitude…both of which I witnessed during our stay.
(Photo above: River view in Same)
Our journey began in Dili and led us south to Maubisse and from there to Same. We then headed slightly west to Ermera and finally the northern and southeastern coasts where we stayed near Lore and Tutuala. Traveling through coffee plantations, mangrove swamps, forests, gorgeous beaches (and I reiterate gorgeous), and central highlands that were high dessert terrain that looked like a moonscape I came to understand that Timor-Leste is quite diverse in its’ landscape, natural resources and what it has to offer an interested traveler. As far as favorites I’m torn between two places. One was the central highlands of Maubisse where we stayed at a posada which overlooked a lovely valley, verdant and green. Ironically, this cool mountain air with the lovely surroundings was not as conducive to the needs of the creatures we desired so we soon moved to the lower elevations with lush forests and then on to the hot humid coast. My other favorite spot was the coastal village of Lore where we camped on a pristine beach and met wonderful people who helped make our stay so memorable.
(Photo above:President Ramos-Horta receives team)
An extraordinary event happened to us on the last full day in Timor-Leste. Through advisors and governmental officials that Dr. Kaiser had previously met, our team was given the honor of having an audience with President Jose Ramos-Jorta. We sat with the President while he and Dr. Kaiser discussed our scientific venture. Dr. Kaiser then turned to one of the Timor-Leste students and let him have the floor to discuss, in Tetum (the language of Timor-Leste), their role in the expedition and the results of the trip. It was an exciting time for each of us but it was obvious that the Timor-Leste students were visibly moved by this meeting. I could only imagine the impact such an encounter would have on these young men, with this historical figure, given the turmoil and triumph of their country in their short lives. It was an event that punctuated a successful trip with a most amazing and unforgettable ending.
It goes without saying that my 12 companions would have completely different travelogues than I have given here. I too come from a science based background and am not beyond true appreciation of the wonderful animal life we were able to uncover in our travels. But I am an emotional traveler and this trip served my emotions well as it peaked my appreciation for the cultural heritage of this land rather than solely looking at the gifts nature has to offer. My trip was, as the adage goes, not so much about the final destination but rather the journey along the way.
(Team poses outside Presidential Palace in Dili)The end of a trip severs ties that, in the moment, seem unbreakable. Teams become individuals again and, in this case, go across the globe to rest in familiar lifestyles. But whether paths cross again or not, those 21 days of laughter, hard work, sharing, and the glory of success as a team will always stand and be given life only to those Team Members. So, to those Team Members; for your partnerships, friendships and to the true nature of good traveling companions I would like to say Thank You for your wonderful company. And finally, I would like to take this opportunity to say to all of those who helped us along the way a most sincere Thank You for a memorable stay in Timor-Leste.
For more information please contact the FPCD Office
.
.
.
(Photo above: Team banquet in Dili) Traveling throughout Timor-Leste for three weeks on a scientific expedition was a unique way to experience this emerging nation for the first time. Nine biology students, (5 from the U.S. and 4 from Timor-Leste), a professor of biology and two professional herpetologists (one was my husband) were my traveling companions. The trip was the brainchild of biology professor Dr. Hinrich Kaiser of Victor Valley College in California. His goal was to begin a five year study of the herpetofauna (reptiles and amphibians) of Timor Leste in the hopes of producing a field guide to these animals and add to the general body of scientific knowledge about reptiles and amphibians of the world.
(Photo above: Dr Kaiser teaching a Timorese University student) Dr. Kaiser, the trip leader, has been leading students in the field for years. His ability to connect with the students and make each lesson attractive to the mind was impressive and reflected his enthusiasm for his research. My husband, Paul Freed, is a herpetologist and I am a primatologist: he studies amphibians and reptiles whereas I study primates. We both recently retired from 25 year careers at the Houston Zoo, in Houston, Texas. This venture was the perfect place to engage Paul’s expertise and since this was not my field of study it was a great time to position myself where I could focus on more cultural than scientific elements of the trip. The other professional herpetologist, Mark O’Shea, is from the U.K. and has, on his resume, the extra feature of having hosted an Animal Planet TV series. On the trip he was recognized in airports and on various stops along the way which lent a certain panache to the whole experience. The students were varied in their scholastic levels: the five U.S. students were from California colleges and the four Timor Leste students were currently living in Dili and attending the National University of Timor-Leste. So with this multinational, multigenerational group coming together as a team we started our journey in the capital, Dili. In the end, these 13 people with age gaps of up to 36 years, language glitches, living and working in close quarters together for 3 weeks, 24/7, as they say, and ending the trip as friends and colleagues… is quite an accomplishment indeed.
(Photo above:Skink Lizard from Lore, Timor-Leste)First, and foremost, the trip was heralded as a success by the team of biologists who recorded approximately 30 reptile and 7 amphibian species found on the 3 week expedition. This is in comparison to the low number of species of these animals documented in Timor-Leste in recent years. Some of the species they found may be new to science, which, in the world of a biologist on a quest, is a huge deal.
(Photo above:Lore Village home where author was guest)Second and relevant only to me, traveling with college students many years my junior brought high energy and a sense of innocence and excitement not always felt in the company of seasoned travelers. It was as refreshing as it was challenging. The hills, rivers and forests of Timor-Leste are lovely and they called to us to climb and conquer them and the students were usually first to answer this call and fastest on the treks. The professor tried to rein in the team long enough to discuss the natural history of each area we were in and watching both the U.S. and the Timor-Leste students take these lessons in at their own levels and from their own frames of reference held a great deal of interest to me. But the greatest reward was past the science lessons and came when they melded to form that irrefutable, universally accepted group known to the world as the typical college students. No longer bound by the barriers of language, culture or protocol the banter became young and chatty, they shared music and much laughter and in the end they “culturally mentored” one another in the ways of each of their lives. That, for me, was worth the trip.
(Photo above: Common Toad)There are several things that stand out as I reflect on the trip. The first is how hospitable the Timor-Leste folks were to us as we traveled through the country. They were generous even when we unknowingly asked for more than our share of resources. The people in the markets were kind, albeit a bit shy.
(Photo above: Market in Maubisse)People in small villages were helpful with things such as lodging and directions and appropriately curious about our somewhat extraordinary endeavors and queries: “Where is a local hotel and have you seen any snakes in your village?” That is a strange request in any language, in any country. But the people were nice about all of our inquiries and quite helpful if they had information on frogs and lizards and the like. They watched us as we searched for creatures in ditches, rivers and fields and that is where I got some great opportunities to meet candidly with local people. Here, the Timor-Leste contingency of our team, i.e., the Timor-Leste students, were so extremely helpful with introductions and general translations. While we relied on their help in the majority of circumstances I found that, universally, a smile and a hand outstretched in friendship usually got the job done as far a basic “Hello” and “How are you?” goes. On more than one occasion it even prompted invitations into peoples’ homes and I found that to be amazing and kind.
(Photo above:Collared kingfisher in Tutuala)Another one of the ‘stand-out’ features were the roads. They varied from terrific to terrible. It was noteworthy to me because whether we smoothly sped along the northern coastal highway or barely moved around cavernous potholes on the roads in the central hills, there were always people walking those same roads. I am assuming this facet of the countries’ infrastructure that is being attended, such as road repairs throughout, probably slows commerce down but it is blatantly evident that it does not slow the population of Timor-Leste down.
(Photo above: Tutuala Beach with Jaco Island view)From some of the remarkable stories I heard during my time in Timor-Leste I realized that resilience is a notable characteristic of the citizens of this country. So, while traffic was stopped for road repairs, I watched from our truck as people skirted around barrels full of hot tar and went on their daily tasks undaunted by the inconvenience as we sat motionless in the middle of the road. I indulged myself in this metaphor about the fortitude of the Timor-Leste people in this ‘road repair’ story because of its relevance to my three-week stay. We traveled many roads and along the way learned a lot about the people and events in their not-so-distant past that led to the need for road repairs and fortitude…both of which I witnessed during our stay.
(Photo above: River view in Same)Our journey began in Dili and led us south to Maubisse and from there to Same. We then headed slightly west to Ermera and finally the northern and southeastern coasts where we stayed near Lore and Tutuala. Traveling through coffee plantations, mangrove swamps, forests, gorgeous beaches (and I reiterate gorgeous), and central highlands that were high dessert terrain that looked like a moonscape I came to understand that Timor-Leste is quite diverse in its’ landscape, natural resources and what it has to offer an interested traveler. As far as favorites I’m torn between two places. One was the central highlands of Maubisse where we stayed at a posada which overlooked a lovely valley, verdant and green. Ironically, this cool mountain air with the lovely surroundings was not as conducive to the needs of the creatures we desired so we soon moved to the lower elevations with lush forests and then on to the hot humid coast. My other favorite spot was the coastal village of Lore where we camped on a pristine beach and met wonderful people who helped make our stay so memorable.
(Photo above:President Ramos-Horta receives team)An extraordinary event happened to us on the last full day in Timor-Leste. Through advisors and governmental officials that Dr. Kaiser had previously met, our team was given the honor of having an audience with President Jose Ramos-Jorta. We sat with the President while he and Dr. Kaiser discussed our scientific venture. Dr. Kaiser then turned to one of the Timor-Leste students and let him have the floor to discuss, in Tetum (the language of Timor-Leste), their role in the expedition and the results of the trip. It was an exciting time for each of us but it was obvious that the Timor-Leste students were visibly moved by this meeting. I could only imagine the impact such an encounter would have on these young men, with this historical figure, given the turmoil and triumph of their country in their short lives. It was an event that punctuated a successful trip with a most amazing and unforgettable ending.
It goes without saying that my 12 companions would have completely different travelogues than I have given here. I too come from a science based background and am not beyond true appreciation of the wonderful animal life we were able to uncover in our travels. But I am an emotional traveler and this trip served my emotions well as it peaked my appreciation for the cultural heritage of this land rather than solely looking at the gifts nature has to offer. My trip was, as the adage goes, not so much about the final destination but rather the journey along the way.
(Team poses outside Presidential Palace in Dili)The end of a trip severs ties that, in the moment, seem unbreakable. Teams become individuals again and, in this case, go across the globe to rest in familiar lifestyles. But whether paths cross again or not, those 21 days of laughter, hard work, sharing, and the glory of success as a team will always stand and be given life only to those Team Members. So, to those Team Members; for your partnerships, friendships and to the true nature of good traveling companions I would like to say Thank You for your wonderful company. And finally, I would like to take this opportunity to say to all of those who helped us along the way a most sincere Thank You for a memorable stay in Timor-Leste.For more information please contact the FPCD Office
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posted by Claudia Abate at 11:40 AM
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